(Wo)Man vs. Books

On the content of and decision making in used bookstores.

I have been known to get into heated discussions over the Kindle, and it’s cousin the Nook. I don’t own either one but have no problems interrogating a stranger on the benefits of the device. So you can keep five books in your bag, and I can’t fit more than two. I see your slim and sexy packaging in that designer bag of yours. Are you reading a classic, too? Nothing says e-books like Louis Vouitton and Charles Dickens.

Books are my guilty pleasure. It is a hands-on, all senses alert. There is the feel of a crisp page, the snap of a new spine, the smell of ink and the sight of words. New books, old books, paperback, hardcover, from the library or from the store. Crime, comedy, murder, mystery. From E.B. White to Ernest Hemingway, I am a full blown bibliophile.

photo courtesy of Bookshop Blog

So it should come as no surprise that I support used bookstores. My mother and I have a confirmed Barnes & Noble addiction, complete with membership, and can often be found loitering at the friendly neighborhood BN. Now that the Midwest has taken that away from me (I am an HOUR from the closest one & 800 miles from my mother) – I find myself turning toward local bookstores.

This phenomenon has carried over from my travels, where I frequently sought out bookshops that would take the books I’d read and offer me credit toward a stack of secondhand books. I had superb luck in Budapest and Prague, and no luck in Seville, and am just starting to examine the goods at hand in Charleston, IL .. with occasional detours to book heaven in Chicago.

Last weekend I went to nearby Mattoon (Matt-Toon) and opted for the Book Loft, just down the corner from the train station and across the street from a firearms store (yes, really). It turns out to be a fully stocked, delightful place with its fair share of romance novels, Westerns, and Bibles. I buzz through to the contemporary section and snatch one, two, three books off the shelves. I act like I don’t want a fourth one, but I do – so that comes too. Am I looking for specific titles? Not necessarily .. but I’d know it if I saw it. Wandering through all the purple jacketed Jude Deveraux and the curly script spines of Nora Roberts, I look away from those and on toward my next big read. The smell of dust, ink and mothballs is overwhelming.

At the counter I turn over two books for credit (Einstein Girl and Icy Sparks), and stack up my four: Steinbeck’s Grapes of Wrath, Pearl Buck’s The Good Earth, Andre Dubus’ House of Sand and Fog and Mr. Hemingway’s Moveable Feast. In the scratch of a #2 pencil on the inside cover, the most expensive book is $6.00. The cheapest is $2.50.

The cashier smiles politely, and tallies up my contribution with great precision on a handheld calculator. Each book going home with me is documented in his careful penmanship in a spiral bound notebook by author and title. He tilts his head at me and says “you know, if you continue exponentially, next time you’ll walk out of here with eight books!” I smile at this kindred spirit and think, why yes sir .. I will.

the beauty of trains

How many times have you heard someone say: “it’s about the journey, not the destination.” Or the quote attributed to Buddha, “It is better to travel well than to arrive.” Either way you say it, how you get there is a big deal.

Segovia-Guiomar, Spain

For anyone living in Europe, this is a no-brainer. For those of you that have lived there once, I suspect you might be mourning the loss of public transportation. I am! I love my car, and I love driving. But trains, metros, buses, trams and shuttles are just a really smart idea. I’ve traveled all over Spain by train, across the plain. I chauffeured my parents to and from four different cities using the RENFE system, and have been subject to several mandatory RyanAir train rides to civilization. Nose to the window, eyes wide open and taking pictures along the way.

I had a realization today in the office, and I’ve confirmed my suspicions: I have never been on a train in the United States. You’re probably thinking that’s crazy for a train lover that has lived most of her life in the Northeast Corridor. Let me tell you something about Amtrak up north. Here’s some math:

• Washington, DC to New York City, NY: 3 hours, 25 minutes.
  Cheapest round-trip  (off-peak times on the Northeast Regional) = $160
  Fastest round-trip (2 hours, 42 minutes on the Acela Express) = $284
• Philadelphia, PA to New York City, NY: 90 minutes.
  Cheapest round-trip (off-peak times on the Northeast Regional) = $100
  Fastest round-trip (60 minutes each way on the Acela Express) = $260
• New York City, NY to Boston, MA: Between 4 and 5 hours.
  Cheapest round-trip (off-peak times on the Northeast Regional) = $138
  Fastest round-trip (3 hours, 30 minutes on the Acela Express) = $236

That being said, is it any surprise that the United States pales in comparison to other countries when it comes to train-riding? I don’t know about you, but when I travel the largest part of my budget is not set aside for transportation. This past summer I got up before the sun to get on a train from Budapest to Prague that boarded at 4:30 a.m. Why? Because it cost almost nothing (7 hours, 13€), compared to its later departure time. But if I have to get on a train in New York at 4 a.m. and still spend over $100? No thanks, I’ll pass.

courtesy of Ultimate Train Challenge

For those of you who think you’re train-savvy, here’s a group of people that will put anyone to shame. As part of Ultimate Train Challenge 2011, three awesome traveler bloggers took to the rails in a 30 day sprint from Lisbon to Saigon. In one particular video, the team is en route from Moscow to Beijing on the Trans-Siberian. From karaoke to kisses from conductors to cabin cocktails, Nora, Michael and Jeannie have an interesting time of it .. somewhere around the 7 minute mark you will see Nora narrating as the train pulls away from the station while they aren’t physically onboard. Think about this for a second (the duration, not the escaping engine): ONE WEEK on a train. That’s 150 hours. (!)

Budapest Keleti Station, Hungary

This weekend I’ll embark on my first US train trip, a mere three hours. One of my office staff gave me the low down on the train bound for Chicago from our neck of the woods. We’ll pass several university stops and some other high traffic areas, on our way up north. This train does not have the reputation for being on time or for having enough seating. Needless to say, it will be an adventure, whether I get there on time or not.

Stay tuned for tales from the tracks!

Q&A: show me the money

on getting paid, making a budget & fiscal survival in Spain

Q: How’s the pay? Are you able to make ends meet?

A: As an auxiliar working 12 hours a week, I get paid 700 euros a month. At this time that is the equivalent of approx $970 USD. Some of you are probably thinking of your rent payments and wondering if I am surviving on bread and water. Remember that the standard of living is noticeably different here in Sevilla. Take care not to include this statement with other major Spanish cities because Madrid and Barcelona are much pricier. I share a 3 BR apartment with two other people and am only responsible for my share of internet and electric on top of that. To see a typical breakdown of expenditures, check out this post from October.

Regarding making ends meet, it is fairly simple to blast through this kind of money. Going out frequently, or buying a new pair of boots adds up in a hurry. That being said, I am conscious of my choices on a daily basis — do I need that from the grocery store? Will it spoil before I get the chance to eat it? Most noticeably, it has changed the way I shop for groceries — it’s a huge change for me to be in a place where I can walk over to the store if I need bread or milk. So I buy less and tend to shop more often, purchasing only the things I need in the immediate future.

Q: How often do you get paid? Do you receive an actual check?

A: We get paid at the beginning of the month, or sometimes at the tail end. It varies because our checks are physically signed by the director before they go to the bank. If he is at a conference or we have a holiday, the check isn’t signed and we don’t get paid. There are some schools that issue a paper check, which is extremely difficult when the banks are only open from 9 am to 2 pm on weekdays and we are at work during these times. My school offers direct deposit, and this is a blessing. It means I can check my deposit online through my bank’s website and it also means that I don’t physically have to receive a check. Blissfully, it also means my bank account can be replenished while I’m traveling – and that is worth its weight in gold.

Q: Are you living solely on your paycheck or do you have any additional income?

A: My paycheck is supplemented substantially by my efforts in private tutoring. I cannot stress enough how rewarding it is as an experience (and not just financially). It was also relatively easy to do, as I mentioned here when I first ventured into tutoring back in October. To give you an idea of how lucrative this actually can be, here’s the breakdown of my private classes. I am tutoring three people: a 40 year old businessman, a 31 year old publicist and a 9 year old girl. The average price for private lessons is between 12 and 15 euros an hour. I see the 9 year old once a week for an hour at 12 euros each session; the 40 year old for 90 minutes at a time, up to 3 times a week for 15 euros each session and the 31 year old twice a week for 60-90 minutes at a time for up to 18 euros a session.

Even with my excessive traveling at the end of February, I still made 160 euros that month. This is cash in my wallet that I can use for groceries, a bus trip or a cup of coffee without worrying about tapping into my bank account. Three cheers for English!

Q: Do you still maintain an American bank account?

A: Yes. I am still responsible for a significant amount of bills back home in Real Life – including but not limited to a car payment, student loans and other fun things. Unfortunately my Spanish debit card does not work for online purchases, which is idiotic, and also one of the largest oversights I could have ever made. The flights and trains and hotels I purchase go on my American credit cards, which also means the charges are in USD and depend on the current exchange rate, and get paid through my American account.

I have not yet tried to send money back and forth between accounts, but I’m sure it will be an adventure so I will share that info when I attempt it. Going forward I will switch to an international bank to avoid ATM withdrawal fees and find a debit card that allows me to make online purchases. Did you know they also don’t use checkbooks here? Very strange. But they DO have an automated machine that prints out a checkbook balance for you if you go into the bank to complete a transaction. You know, during the five minutes they are actually open during the day.

Q: How are you doing your taxes?

A: In the last fiscal year I was a full time employee, so I still have a W2 to deal with in addition to student loan interest and other accounts. Luckily, my family uses a marvelous accountant who is taking care of my taxes … so I was only concerned with the collection of all the necessary paperwork.

Q: How can you afford to travel?

A: Traveling while living abroad is a high priority for me. It makes me happy and I have no problem spending the money I’ve earned to get to great places and see amazing things. So if that means I don’t go out to eat for a week or two, that’s fine. If it means I pick up some more tutoring on the side, that’s fine too. Watching the airlines fares for flexible dates rather than fixed ones is key, and so are the sites I mention so often when travel planning. Being aware of a tighter budget has also made me more receptive to things like couch surfing, and networking amongst friends to find a free place to rest my head. This is an incomparable benefit to having friends abroad – I love both hosting and being hosted. There is something special about showing someone your life and where you live, just as the local connection is so important in a new place.

To conclude..
.. yes you can survive here on what they pay you if you live carefully and are fiscally responsible. Keep in mind I started with a specific amount from the US as start up, not to mention back up (if you remember the horror stories of people not being paid until December). Don’t let money hold you back from an experience like this!

travel planner

parent’s first time in Europe, no pressure right? How I tackled this epic project.

- flights. I committed several Kayak alerts to watching the east coast USA to central / southern Spain flights. Bearing in mind that flying into Sevilla usually jacks up the price and adds a layover in Madrid – I watched nearby Malaga (AGP) and also the epicenter of the universe: Madrid.

- hotels. I swear by hotels.com and booking.com. I lean heavily on booking.com for its user reviews (there are hundreds) and occasionally check with Fodors.com for hotel recommendations. Hotels.com has a variety of ways to sort the results and if you manage to book ten nights through their website – you can have one night for free.

- transportation. We are not planning on renting a car. I would rather not have to worry about being responsible for such a thing, and I would much rather use public transportation. So, trains are our main mode of transport. Thanks to Renfe’s website you can see the schedules and prices for everything. I plan to buy our train tickets in advance to secure seats – sometimes they are popular trains and sell out pretty quickly.

- budget. Oh yes, I made a spreadsheet. It was the only way I could get my thoughts straight and keep track of everything. If you have any interest in the numbers, just holler and I will be happy to share them with you. All in all I would say we are going to be doing this for far cheaper than I originally anticipated.

- museums / tickets. Thanks to the tourism boom, it is now possible to buy many tickets online to the majority of historical sites and museums. Sometimes prior purchases can help you cut the line (see: Anne Frank) and can secure a place for you at a certain time (see: the Alhambra). Of the cities we are visiting, the only site we can order tickets for in advance is the Alhambra. Let me issue a warning here. The palace only accepts a certain amount of visitors per day. When I went in November, we walked in without advance tickets. Conversely, when I attempted to book tickets for a friend visiting in January, the first 3 days I tried were sold out.

* a side note on museum entrance in Europe. There are a myriad of possible discounts. Retirees (65+), students, large families, kids under 12, kids under 5, teachers, etc. Be mindful of the rules of each and every monument as they will vary. In my experience it is also true that it depends on the person who is working at the counter. For example, my first trip to the Sevilla Cathedral was free. My second trip cost 8 euros. Annoying, right? Well some people check your card and some people don´t. Some people ask for your birthday, others don´t. Some people will take you at your word (¨ I´m a teacher ¨), other won´t. So don´t expect this to remain the same on every trip. My best advice is to give it a try, and if it works .. good for you!

In you were wondering .. they´ll be here in two weeks I can´t wait!

As for me, it´s off to Galicia and points north this weekend .. I´ve never seen that side of the country, so I´m looking forward to the change of scenery and obviously, the food.

this life on a budget

Made the most important purchase of the year today: INTERNET. 30 euros a month / 3 people = muy bien.

If you’re considering living abroad your brain – like mine – is probably a mess. There are so many things to consider: cost of living, salary, rent, transportation, and so forth. Now that I’ve been here for a few weeks (although at times it feels like months), I still experience some shock when I check out at the grocery store. Please note this does not include my shock at the cashier throwing my purchases down the conveyor belt like dice… because that is consistent. Remember that the prices listed below are in euros since I’m rocking out in the European Union. I try to avoid watching the currency rates and prefer to live in ignorance as it fluctuates every five seconds, but the current rate is always available via Google (ex: 130 euros in dollars).

Some examples:

0.75: fifty-page notebook with lines, as opposed to graph paper which is the norm
0.38: can of tomato sauce
2.65: two chicken breasts, .5 kilos
2.50: glass of red wine at a bar, 6-8 oz
0.95: box of red wine at the grocery, 1L
1.26: pint of cherry tomatoes
0.50: bag of pasta, 250 grams
2.50: plate of tapas (appetizers) at a restaurant
2.85 box of cereal
5.00: two hand towels
2.69: potatoes, 3 kilos
1.79: box of black tea, 35 bags
0.74: hand soap, 500 mL
1.49: shower gel
0.95: dish soap, 750 mL
2.10: Mr. Clean, who we spend a lot of time with as we strive to keep our white marble floors sparkling and fabulous, 1.5 L
7.50: one way bus ticket Sevilla to Huelva
250.00: my rent with two other roommates
5.00: seven-day SeVici subscription
10.00: one-year SeVici subscription
19.00: Samsung phone + rechargeable SIM card
4.00: six document photos for national identity card & other assorted bureaucracy
15.15: taxes associated with said documentation for non EU citizens

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