Oh, Canada

In September 2015 we set out on my birthday weekend for a trip to Niagara Falls. We drove from Maryland to Buffalo, New York where we made a required stop at Anchor Bar, “home of the buffalo wing.” Fortified on spices we had an easy border crossing into Canada where we checked into Niagara Falls for the night.

Thank god our hotel was far from chaos of Clifton Hill which is all lights, noises, people, smells. It is a cross between Las Vegas and the Atlantic City boardwalk. I smell funnel cake, my eyes spin with bright white of the Ferris wheel at the top of the hill, and my ears are full of pop music from the wax museum, evil laughter from the Haunted House, and the chatter of hundreds of people. We hope for Friday night fireworks but the wind is too high and we leave the falls without any pyrotechnics. We try a “beaver tail” for dessert which is basically an elephant ear – flaky puff pastry, sugar, and covered in toppings.

Morning comes and the place is absolutely silent. John goes for a run and I photograph the empty streets, my favorite. The Midway is empty, wax museum Taylor Swift is silenced. The falls (THE falls) are just at the base of Clifton Hill and the mist is already churning through the humid air. The boats are out and cruising with poncho-clad tourists and we’re about to be among them.

We chose the Hornblower cruise on the Canadian side after many people recommended we stick with Canada (as opposed to the U.S. Maid of the Mist). The day was perfect for a quick ride and it also won the day as the most efficient tourist attraction. People constantly moving, mobile tickets available, and easy to get where we were going. After the kitsch of the town, the falls were a beautiful and welcome respite from the heat.

We also decided to do Journey Behind the Falls for a different perspective. The attraction itself was not particularly efficient but the views were worthwhile. Walking through tunnels behind the falls the noise is muted but thunderous when you turn the corner to two separate portholes that allow you to see the water up close. Walking out onto the platform next to the falls is unbelievable.

We hopped back in the car to head north to Toronto, a new city for both of us. Another first: a snafu with our Air BNB condo that bears mentioning (they do happen) but doesn’t bear dwelling on (too much time spent griping already.) Toronto was a welcome change after the chaos of Niagara Falls. Here were the high rises and apartment buildings, the baseball stadium and the needle of the CN Tower. We had a great time wandering the city, especially down near the Harbourfront Centre in the evening while a food festival was on.

Several memorable places from Toronto, mostly food-related of course:

O Noir needs a blog post of its own for the sake of the experience. Just know that if you’re in town and you’re an adventurous eater.. you should book yourself a dinner here.

Caffe Demetre was revealed to us in a search for best desserts and that is no joke. We shared a gigantic apple pie a la mode on a waffle and were glad for the walk afterwards. With several locations in Toronto this is a must-do for anyone with a sweet tooth.

Kensington Market is a unique neighborhood in Toronto full of street art, fresh fruit, vintage shops, and you know I found the bakery. It was a now closed bakery that introduced me to the Nanaimo bar – a Canadian classic made of crumbs, chocolate, coconut, and magic.

Steamwhistle Brewing Company is a wonderful way to spend half a day. First, snack on a Soloways hot dog  from nearby baseball stadium vendor. It’s the best damn hot dog I’ve ever had, and we actually stopped by the factory on the way out of town to buy a case. Seriously. Then head to Steamwhistle to (you guessed it) wet your whistle. They do pilsner. Only pilsner. They also have a deep commitment to sustainability, green energy, and product quality. As a former bartender something that stuck with me is their agreement to clean the tap lines for any bar that taps their beer – guaranteeing the same clean taste every time. That’s classy.

Catch you next time, Canada.


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